A custom bra should always fit you perfectly. But what exactly is a good fit, and what should the bra maker consider so that the fit is perfect for you?
To answer these questions, let’s take a look at a few factors that a custom bra maker needs to consider.
Tomima Edmark from Her Room has some excellent examples of different breast shapes, positions, separation, fullness, and nipple issues that need to be considered. A custom bra maker must consider all these factors, as well as others, when fitting a client. For example, a woman with flaccid breast tissue will require a different cup design than one with more dense tissue.
Most bra fitting tests available on-line specifically relate to ready-to-wear; nevertheless, some very good ones can be found here and here. There are extra bra fitting tests that relate to a custom bra; remember that it is almost impossible for ready-to-wear to satisfy the bra fit of specific areas. For example, the wireline shape should match your shape exactly. Most underwires are the wrong shape and/or too long for a lot of women. A custom bra maker must make sure that the curvature of the cup and the band are appropriate for your shape and breast tissue.
A good custom bra maker knows what cup styles are appropriate for a particular breast shape and tissue density. The best shaping and support will come from multi-piece cups because the cup shape can be customized perfectly to the client’s breast shape. Foam cups cannot come close to this because they provide neither shape nor support for the breasts. Accuracy when cutting and sewing the cup pieces ensures that the cups will provide maximum lift.
The band size and shape must be appropriate for the client. Some women have a lot of tissue on their backs or directly below their breasts. Bands that are too wide on the front will cut into their flesh when they sit or bend down. Also, some women have very malleable tissue all over their bodies, while some women are more bony or muscular with minimal tissue under their breasts. Not all women have the same torso shape, and some have more noticeable differences with their rib shapes and bone structure. That is why long-line bras are appropriate styles for only a very small group of women.